Category: Maintenance

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Audi TT shifter bushings

Installing Deisel Geek Cable saver shifter Bushings in an Audi TT

If you drive an Audi TT, you may have noticed that the shifter bushings can wear out over time, making it difficult to select gears. In some cases, like the one we’re dealing with here, the shift cable may completely detach from the shift lever. Don’t worry, though, with a bit of patience and know-how, you can fix this problem yourself. Here’s how:

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“Step-by-Step Guide: How to Change Transmission Fluid and Filter in a Jeep Cherokee AW4 Automatic Transmission”

If you want to keep your Jeep Cherokee automatic AW4 running smoothly, it’s recommended to change the transmission fluid and filter every 25,000 miles. Here’s how to do it:

Read more: “Step-by-Step Guide: How to Change Transmission Fluid and Filter in a Jeep Cherokee AW4 Automatic Transmission”
  1. Start by removing the bolt that holds the filler tube to the engine block. It can be difficult to reach, so use a long extension and a swivel joint.
  2. Raise the Jeep and support the transfer case. Remove the cross member by removing the four transmission mount nuts (13mm) hidden inside the cross member. Then remove the four bolts (15mm) holding the cross-member to the body.
  3. Remove the drain plug and let the fluid drain into a large pan. You’ll need about a gallon to five quarts of space.
  4. Remove the perimeter bolts (10mm) of the transmission pan. Leave a couple in the front partially threaded in to allow the pan to tip back and fully drain.
  5. If the two parts of the filler tube are stuck together, you can remove the pan with the tube still attached. Remove all the pan bolts, then work the hold-down tab over the bell housing from the engine bay. Lower the transmission slightly to make some space between the body and the transmission, then work the pan out with the filler tube attached.
  6. If possible, separate the two parts of the filler tube before removing the pan. It will make reinstallation easier.
  7. Remove the four bolts (10mm) holding the filter to the valve body, and remove the filter, making sure both gaskets come off with the filter.
  8. Inspect the solenoid wiring and make sure the mating surface is clean. Install the new filter and tighten the four bolts.
  9. Clean the inside of the pan and inspect the magnets for debris. The more fuzzy metal there is, the more wear the clutches have. Install the gasket by pressing a few mounting bolts through the gasket to get it lined up.
  10. Line up the pan with the mating surface of the transmission. The pan is glued on at the factory, so you can use a sealant instead of a gasket, but I recommend using the one that comes in the WIX kit.
  11. Install the bolts and tighten them by hand, making sure the filler tube mounting tab is in the proper place in the front of the bell housing before starting any bolts.
  12. Once all the bolts are in place, torque them down to spec. Note that stripped bolts are common, so have a Helicoil kit ready (6mm x 1.0) just in case.
  13. Install the top part of the filler tube. Drop the tube from the top, then align it from underneath. Use a rubber hammer to tap it down into place. Reinstall the mounting bolt on the bell housing.
  14. Raise the transmission back up into position and reinstall the cross member. The transmission may shift a little to one side as it is raised and lowered, so be prepared to pry a bit to realign the cross-member bolts. It’s easiest to mount the cross member to the transmission mount while it is slightly lowered, then jack up the cross member to the body.
  15. Refill the transmission with fresh fluid. It will take about 5 quarts. Put in four quarts, then run the engine, cycle through the gears, and check for leaks. Add more fluid as needed.

With fresh fluid and a new filter, your AW4 transmission should run smoothly for a long time. Just be sure to keep it properly lubricated and don’t let it overheat or run low on fluid.

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99 XJ stalls at idle

IAC relearn

Our 99 XJ does not get driven much anymore, Sometimes it sits for a week at a time without being started. Recently it would not start unless the throttle was held open. Then it would not idle. It would stall as soon as you let off the gas.

I hooked up my Altell scan tool and started looking at the IAC values. They seemed a bit off for what I respected. But not having any history on this Jeep I just watched them for a while.

I began by holding open the throttle just enough to keep it from stalling. The target RPM was 740 and I held it around 650 or so. Slowly the IAC value began to adjust. At first, it seemed to go the wrong way but eventually, it began incrementing, and soon the IAC was controlling the idle speed.

I tested by restarting without touching the gas pedal. I also put the Jeep in drive and reverse and the idle speed held fine. I switched on the AC as well and the IAC continued to control the idle.

I have no idea what the IAC lost its memory, but just holding the throttle open enough to keep it running did the trick to reset. I could have done this without a scan tool but by monitoring, I could see when the IAC actually began to regain control and I knew when to let it go on its own.

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F250 O2 Sensor code

Repairing rodent damage to my F250 wiring harness

My F250 does not get driven much. Since it is primarily a tow vehicle, it spends most of its time parked in the woods with the trailers. This leaves it susceptible to rodent damage.

I got an oxygen sensor error code one day out of the blue. I began by testing the resistance of the heater circuit. It was in spec but on the high side. So I tracked down a Motorcraft sensor in the next town to the south and swapped it out.

The error code was still there. So I took a closer look at the wiring. That is when I noticed a chunk of insulation was missing right at the connector on the harness side.

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Jeep XJ Stumbles and Stalls

Jeep XJ stumbles and stalls (Injector wiring issue)

For quite a while now Jenny’s 1992 Jeep Cherokee has had a stumble or hiccup while driving. We have tried changing a lot of parts to make it go away. New crank sensor, fuel pump, etc.

On her last off-road adventure, the stalling got so bad as to be dangerous. At one point the Jeep would not go into reverse without stalling. It became very noticeable that whenever the engine shifted positions it would stall.

We checked all the wiring connections that could move and they all seemed fine. We were close to ordering a new distributor.

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